Thursday, January 28, 2016

New Zealand - Wellington and Tongariro national park


In order to get to the other island we bought tickets to Bluebridge ferry. We were told that the views are magnificent and we have to take the ferry during the day so that we could stay outside and watch and as we are good kids, we boarded the ship at lunchtime. Going out of Picton into the sea was really beautiful but it was nothing compared to the beauty of Milford Sound. May be if we had done the trip the other way around we would have been more impressed. The trip was only about 3 hours and i got lucky as there was almost neither wind nor waves so the ship was steady. Later we understood that we had really a lucky day as normally during December the sea is quite rough and the journey is not pleasant at all (and the words exactly - 3 hours with 200 puking passengers is not a nice experience)
At Wellington harbor we were picked up by a friend from Bulgaria that has been leaving in New Zealand for the last 10 years and he not only accommodated us but took us everywhere during the next couple of days. Straight from the ferry we went to a hill with a panoramic view over the whole city and i realized that Wellington looked a lot like Veliko Tarnovo - it was scattered over the hills and you constantly go up and down.
 on the way out of Picton habror





It was almost Christmas eve so we had to feel Christmas spirit and as typical kiwis we went to see 'the best decorated house'. Every December in Wellington they have a tradition to make a top 10 list of best decorated houses. These houses are actually decorated for fun from the people that live there and we went to check out number one. It was quite odd for me to watch dwarfs and snow whites when i was dressed in shorts but blooming flowers covered in Christmas lights left me speechless. I was definitely missing the snow and the pine trees


blooming flowers with lights..
even though there are so many toys on the staircase the people were actually living there






Next few days passed in 'city tourism' and a walk in the footsteps of ' Lord of the Rings'  as the studio where Lord of the Rings, Avatar, Planet of the Apes and a lot more very popular movies were filmed is located in Wellington. We did not go inside the 'Weta' studio itself as the tour was related to a cartoon we did not watch but we took pictures with Golum, the trolls and George drove us to the airport to see Smog and Gandalf. I was happy as a child as i am a huge fantasy fan :)

The eye of the dragon is opening and moving

 A few years ago Gandalf and the eagle fell on one of the passengers waiting in the lobby below, but luckily he got away only with a broken leg
Weta is the name of the studios as well as of a really ugly and huge bug
Face to face with Golum




The rest of the city was also really nice, as even though it is a capital, the population is only 400 00 and there is no such traffic and madness as in Sofia. The only negative side of Wellington is the weather - it is windy almost all the time especially in the neighborhoods by the water, where the best views are. Even though we managed to find a spot with less wind and we had picnic lunch by the beach which was awesome. But with nice company the time goes by so quickly that before we knew it, we were already on our way to Tongariro National Park











The scenes in Mordor in the Lord of the Rings were filmed in Tongariro National Park. Also the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is considered to be the 'best one day hike' in New Zealand with 19.4km length and it is very important to keep an eye on the volcanic activity if planning to do it as you are actually hiking an active volcano. There are a few so called 'hazardous zones' that are marking the path of the lava flow and signs that advised if you hear some noise from above, not to enter the zones. There is an option to go to the starting point with a car, but as the end point of the hike is at the other side of the volcano and there is still need of some transport to get back to your car we decided to buy tickets to the bus that would drop us off at the beginning in the morning and at 4pm would wait for us the the end. As the guys in the holiday park told us the usual time to complete the hike is about 7-8 hours we chose the 7.30 AM bus from National Park village.
We maintained quite fast pace during the first 4-5 kilometers of the hike as we were startled from all posts on internet that it is really a difficult walk and the people barely manage to be on time for the bus back to the village. It was quite a pleasant walk mainly on wooden pathways made to protect the moss from the tourists and when we reached the first 'check point' called Soda Springs we discovered that we were actually 30 min ahead of the given time. So far so good but now we had to climb the first crater which was unfortunately covered with clouds and remained hidden all the way up. To be honest the next half an hour was the most difficult part of the whole route as it was quite a steep climb and some 'genius' had made the pathway in stairs which i personally find much more difficult to climb rather than a normal path - this long staircase was just stealing my breath away. Even though every step was definitely worth the effort - the smoke from the volcano was ahead of us, all around us and beneath our feet was lava and when the sun finally came out of the clouds the yellow moss so beautifully contrasted to the black lava that if this wasn't a hazardous zone i could have stayed there for quite a while just admiring the nature

The sun is strong even at 8 AM
First part of the hike - nice and easy walk

A quick view towards Mt Doom before it disappears in the clouds
Lava fields

At this point of the route there was an option either to go on or to climb the crater of Mt Doom but as the clouds were so dense that we could barely see a few meters head we decide not to climb as there was no view to justify the additional 3 hours needed. So we continued to the next crated - call Red as the soil is really red. At the rim we decided to sit down and wait for a while for the clouds to scatter (fingers crossed) and there was a huge surprise - the ground was warm. Some time later when the clouds did actually disappear we saw what was the reason behind the warm ground - there was steam coming out of the ground all around us. And the other awesome surprise which we would have missed if we had not decided to relax on the rim for a while - the Emerald lakes. We were so lucky that we did not miss that view and behind the lakes finally we could see the path ahead, leading right through a huge smoking crater. A natural steam bath with nice sulfur smell :)
 Second check point

Time to warm up our 'bottoms' :)
The other hikers saw us sitting there and laughing and they decided to check what is so funny about sitting on the rim in the clouds


 Amazing green of the Emerald Lakes



This lake hidden in the steam is
really deep blue -and with a lot of imagination they call it.... Blue lake :)









Lets go in the steam bath :)

The red crater view from the central crater

After we got out at the other side of the volcanoes we thought that a long and boring descend will follow but luckily we were wrong. After a 'turn' all of a sudden a great panorama view over the whole national park came out and because of it i stumbled a few times and almost fell, but this is what happens if you cannot keep your eyes on the path :) After a while the nature around us started to change. The black volcanic rocks disappeared and were replaced by a huge field of yellow-orange grass and the path was winding down nicely towards the hut. I did not understand why they call it a hut when you are not allowed to sleep over but only to hide for a few hours if some bad weathers surprises you, but this the kiwi way. The lower we descended, the more the nature around us changed. Very happy we completed the hike in less than 7 hours as the real time we have actually walked is no more than 5.30 hours. As we waited for the bus to come and pick us up it was quite interesting to watch the people coming from the hike. They were so happy and smiling and exhausted. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is really a very beautiful and very diverse hike totally a 'must do' for everyone that has plans to visit New Zealand and it is not as hard as they make you think it is :) Very happy with the whole experience in the evening we opened a bottle of New Zealand wine and we drank it with enormous pleasure :)








Tuesday, January 12, 2016

New Zealand - from Wanaka lake to Picton

On the way to lake Wanaka the views continued to be more and more magnificent. We of course kept on stopping on every viewpoint to enjoy the nature. Our next target was inspired by a photo i saw in one forum and liked a lot and after a short research it turned out to be a panorama shot from Rob Roy peak. The start of the hike leading to the summit is about 6km from Wanaka town and it is in the beginning of Mt Aspiring National Park. The time needed to complete the hike was given to be 6-7 hours and we had to climb 1500m. The track has magnificent views all the way up and the only minus is that there is no shade at all but we got lucky as while we climbed there were some scattered clouds and the temperature was great.After about 2.30 hours we reached the top and the panorama took our breath away - we could see the whole Wanaka lake as well as the mountains covered in snow in the distance
 The road back from Te Anau
 This is just a random stop with breathtaking mirror lake




 We duplicated ourselves :P


Wanaka town is also situated right by the lake and I really liked it. The weather was great and all the people were by the water, enjoying the sun, having picnic or playing with the kids. If are not keen on just lying there are pathways that lead to the next town and all the time you are walking by the lake. The holiday park we chose was also right by the lake and each space had a view. They also had a small beach and you could go fishing if you feel like it. It was the first time we slept in our tent in New Zealand and we were quite surprised that at 9pm we could not hear a single sound - there was no music, no singing not even people chatting, just the rabbits jumping around the tent

Lake Wanaka
 Sunrise @ lake Wanaka from the holiday park







Next on the agenda was visit to 'Aoraki Mt Cook National Park'. It is home to the highest mountains and longest glaciers in New Zealand. According to the legend, Aoraki and his three brothers we sons of Rakinui (The Sky Father). While in the sea, their canoe overturned on a reef. When the brothers climbed on top of their canoe the freezing wind turned them into stone. The canoe became the south island and the Aoraki and his brothers became the peaks of the Southern Alps.
The track that the girl in the info center recommended was called 'Hooker Valley Track'. It was really nice and easy walk up the glacier valley and the end point is the glacier itself. The surroundings were awesome and as we were walking we could hear some cracking noised and falling avalanches, some pretty ominous sounds reminding us how quickly the ice was melting


 On the way to the glacier
And again - no dogs allowed :(







 The view is unreal

Almost there
The glacier is covered with black soil so it is barely seen in the distance




After the glacier another lake was on the agenda - lake Tekapo. The camping was full as most of the tourists were from France and Germany and we were the only Bulgarians as usual :) There was a SPA right by the holiday park but it was closed by the time we got there so i could not check if the water was mineral or not. The town by the camping was really small - about 400 people were living there and there was nothing that interesting to be seen. They had a a 'historical' church and a statue of a shepherd dog. I put 'historical' in semi columns as it was built in 1935. The interesting thing is that he builders were instructed that the builders of the Church were instructed that the site was to be left undisturbed, and that even the matagouri bushes surrounding the building were to remain. Rocks which happened to be on the wall lines were not to be removed. The stones for the wall were to be procured within a radius of 5 miles of the site, and were to be  in their natural condition
Good morning sunshine :)
 Lake Tekapo Holiday Park - morning coffee


The road to Picton passed through Cristchurch, a city almost destroyed by an earthquake a few years ago. Now most of the buildings in downtown are in a process of re-building and the feeling is like in a construction field. Unfortunately most of the people have moved out of the city fearing another earthquake and now the city is not that alive as it used to be. We walked around quite quickly as the vibe of the city was quite painful and i did not feel very nice there. The idea was to find a place to sleep somewhere in Cristchurch but we decided to drive for about 100km more and find something on the way. A holiday park in Cheviot caught our attention with its prices and services  - they had free wi-fi - so we parked our red beast and went for a walk. The walk was pretty short as the town had about 20 houses and all the people were inside watching TV and we were the only people on the street. There were not even cars passing by - we felt like in a zombie movie.Luckily no zombies appeared so on the next day we could return the car and take the ferry to the capital of New Zealand
 The church is heavily damaged

 Very strange way to keep the original facade of the building